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Tiempo Fuera In Tulum

April 17, 2012

When life handed me a few too many lemons, I decided that a trip to Tulum was in order. I honestly didn’t know what to expect. Of course I checked Wikipedia, read the recent New York Times article, and tried to weed through the reviews on Trip Advisor. Nothing really prepared me for Tulum in actuality. So, in case you are headed there yourself, or maybe you are just curious, here is my quick and dirty run down:

Life in Tulum is simple. There are quite literally no addresses along the Beach Road. The single lane road is littered with topes (speed bumps). To the north you will find the Mayan Ruins, and to the south you will find the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. Very few of the businesses along the road have websites or facebook pages. Although I’m the kinda lady that does just fine with a simple room and a cold shower, I also fully admit that I enjoy a lux private party. Both true stories. You will also find your way to many adventures!

Trip Advisor owns the place, and I have added my own reviews. Do your research, but take it all in with a grain of salt. I witnessed one guy give Om Tulum a bad review after staying for two days, eating all their best food, and then walking out on his bill “because he saw a cockroach.” Maybe there was one, but I think we can all agree that this guy just wanted to keep his pesos. Through his write up on Trip Advisor, he also insults one of the wait staff he didn’t tip; a dude who lets kids bury him in the sand on his own birthday for heaven’s sake. The moral of the story is, you WILL be living in the jungle alongside bugs, crabs, lizards, and critters you can’t even imagine exist (I mean really, a spider crab?!)! This is the jungle afterall. Tulum is also off the grid. Still, you’ll be able to find wi-fi, live music, and a rocking good time.

I loved all three of the places where I stayed, in very specific ways: Om Tulum was practically my living room on the beach and thanks to all the staff I really did feel at “h’Om’e”  as their tag line states. Their ceviche is wonderful, their chilaquiles are perfect after a late night, and their cerveza es frio. Las Palmas Maya overbooked me, but Tom let me continue to use their open air kitchen and provided me with a free morning coffee for the duration of my stay. He also set me up with Matteo at the newly opened La Onda, which became the ultimate respite with their simple yet comfortable accommodations. If you do stay at La Onda, or even if you just go for dinner, be sure to check out Beetle Love and their sugar cane concoctions.

An extra huge mucho gusto to my friend Laura (look for her at Zamas!) for dispensing invaluable local knowledge, for taking me to private parties, for giving me tours of town, and for providing much appreciated hospitality. I would also like to thank the many friends (including butterflies!) and even enemies (the shuttle van driver who I thought might kidnap me!) I encountered along the way. Thanks to all of them, as well as the sea, the sun, the stars, the nearby Mayan ruins, and time spent in two cenotes (swimming holes that are a part of the underground water system); I’ve regrouped, and centered in a profound way. I am now prepared to tackle the biggest project I’ve taken on to date. This was the purpose of my trip.

In the meantime, check out my video: 

And here is my first sound poem ever:

Also, for insight on the ecological disaster Tulum is currently facing, check out this project:


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